Chris' 55th Birthday, Part 2

We finally arrived at "Parque Nacional Palenque" in the early afternoon and, along with a couple from Rome, engaged an English and Italian speaking guide. Unfortunately, the guide's commentary became increasingly dogmatic and surly as we climbed up and down the steep steps of the ruins, and he insistantly contended that all other guidebooks/guides were inaccurate and that he had THE novel perspective on the Mayans. Basically, he argued that there was no indigenous Mayan race, and that this civilization created nothing new because it was a mix of peoples from China, the African continent, Egypt, India, Leif Erikson's decendents...not to mention a few hints of possible extra-terresterials. As the rain drizzle turned into a down-pour, he became more adament, briskly scampering up the slick stone steps and pointing-out architectural and sculptural elements to "prove" his thesis. Exhausted and drenched by this point, the four of us offered some mildly skeptical comments (ASG: "hmmm....guess I will have to read up a bit on this topic") and were met with his turned back and a sulking "tour is over." And yet, the enormity and ancientness of this solemn place was certainly evident, and Chris and I stood quietly at one point trying to imaginine how of the 12 or so unearthed temples and buildings, there could still be over 1400 structures still "undiscovered" under the jungle cover. Mayans inhabited this site probably as early as 300 BCE, as a huge city that was a ceremonial center for the high priests, and political and trade center spreading over miles and miles, probably peaking at 600-700 CE. The local Mayans here today speak Tzeltal, and some translate Palenque to mean "chief town or capital of People of the Snake." Snakes were reverenced as sacred in Mayan tradition, which explains in part why early Spanish Catholic depictions of the Virgin Mary have her in domination over these natural elements as she stands on a crescent moon (also reverenced by the Mayans) which rests upon a wriggling snake.

The first photo you see in this blog is Chris and me standing at the top of Temple 13 (with the "Palace" in background) which has recently received archaeological attention due to the discovery of an inner burial site of a richly adorned man. The photo of the skull is an indication that "Day of the Dead" celebrations are pre-Christian traditions that took on the veneer of "All Saints' Day," death being considered by Mayan people's as the culmination of one's life (not a negative "ending") as one transition to another manisfestation. The final photo is of unreadable symbols; scholars have yet to decifer their meaning. A mysterious, haunting place, filled with a teaming sense of complex peoples and purposes. It was a long van ride home, twisting along mountain roads in rain and thick fog, arriving down into the warm and lively San Cristobal streets filled with today's Mayan people.

-ASG